LAOS - November 12th

November 12th 2008 12:54
Bus from Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang
Looking outside it is hard to believe that this place actually exists, and it is not just some spectacular dream. It is unarming to see these mountains of jagged rocks covered in soft blankets of green grass and the sheer cliffs with green trees really belong in this world of ours. How could mother earth be so beautiful, so powerful and commanding, and yet so fragile? I feel truly blessed to be able to see this side of the world, to meet these people and experience their way of life. Watching these green giants crawling out of the earth and strongly standing against all odds is stirring. It is bewildering how so many plants can survive against their vertical limestone peaks. It is almost unfeasible, and yet so many defy the odds. I guess it is a extraordinary analogy of the Lao people. How could a society so riddled with problems, with a legacy of war and death survive so happily amongst its old and new ghosts? Not too many days ago Lynn and I came across this exhibit that would be commemorating those that have been affected by the legacy of UXO dropped by the US Air Force more than 30 years ago. This country, with almost no involvement in the Vietnam war was bombed beyond all recognition. Perhaps it was the part of the Ho Chi Minh trail? Maybe it was the looming fright of a Communism take over? Whatever factors lead up to it, I honestly don’t believe all the guilt and evil in the world could have justified what we did, and are still doing to the Lao people. Now, decades later we are still leaving a legacy, but instead of bombing those involved with the guerilla warfare we are bombing the innocent farmer, and their children, grandchildren. For 9 years we dropped a bomb every 8 minutes. We forced people to leave their villages during the day and hide in caves, living their lives in the safety of the cover of night. The Lao people never saw their enemy, instead they heard the sound of planes zipping through the sky, and they saw the plane overhead. Imagine the fear of living in that type of cruel war for 9 years? Now people who have stumbled across UXO or bombies as the locals call them have had horrible injuries inflicted upon them, they lost limbs, they lost their sight and hearing, they lost their children. Those that have been living with amputated limbs are now given a second chance through this organization called COPE, where they are sponsored and giving rehabilitation and therapy in order to find a way to live their life amongst the rice fields and independent towns. The problem is enormous. Too enormous for me to comprehend. Standing there with tears welling in my eyes, thinking of our hand in this. Why? Why would anyone feel that it is okay? We listened to reports from US pilots who spoke of dropping bombs on anything that moved. You could never tell if it was a soldier, a man on a bicycle, or the currents in the river. If it moved it needed to go. For days after visiting this exhibit I dreamt of the UXO lying hidden in rice fields all over the country.
Unbelievable as it may seem, the Lao people do not cringe when they hear we are Americans. They do not slam their fist s on the table and demand we leave their restaurants, as I might do in their position. They do not mention that members of their family are dead or disable because of our fear of Communism. No, the kindly offer you a cup of tea or a bowl of rice, they smile they wave; they let your play with their children. They are not bitter. It is truly an amazing population. 2 days ago after a great dinner we sat down at a table in our guesthouse to have a beer, we were the only two people in the restaurant far from the tourist side of town. The owner and his young wife and baby came outside to sit with us and talk for over half and hour although it was cold, and late. Their kind curiousity was heartwarming. The more I see of Laos the more I fall in love with it. The more I get to see the simplicity that they live their lives, the way they love the peace and kindness of others. We have a lot to learn from the Laotians.